Far Hills Electrolysis of Oakwood (Dayton), OH/ Hair Removal FAQs

WHAT EXACTLY IS ELECTROLYSIS?
Electrolysis is the only medically approved method available for permanent hair removal (as opposed to reduction as designated by the FDA for laser/light based devices - see: Information Concerning Lasers ). It is a practical option for both males and females wishing to permanently remove undesired hair. It does not require specific hair or skin colors (pigment) to work properly, nor does it matter what hair types or physical areas are to be treated.

“Permanent hair removal” is not immediate hair removal, however, as much as we all wish it could be. Each follicle (see: Hair Follicle) accompanying an unwanted hair must be individually treated, requiring a series of treatments over a period of time. The amount, type, reasons for hair growth, previous temporary methods used, along with skin conditions and sensitivities, determine the actual length of time required to reach completion.

WHAT ABOUT PEOPLE OF COLOR?

Many of my clients with varying shades of darker skin arrive with hyperpigment (a darkening of skin) damage from previous trauma to the skin. The trauma that caused this usually resulted from their own attempts at removal of unwanted hairs (usually by tweezing) or the actual hairs, themselves, causing irritation by growing in a way that creates ingrown hairs or otherwise creates abnormal conditions for the skin. This trauma can actually be relieved with the removal of hairs by electrolysis, assuming it is done correctly. Most frequently, any darkened areas lighten back to normal skin coloring, oftentimes dramatically.

Any electrolysis modality emphasizing DC current (galvanic), especially the “blend” method, is usually preferred for treatment of darker skin tones. This is because the chemical created by this particular modality is more able to follow any potential curvature of follicles, enabling it to reach the target cells at the base more efficiently than any method primarily using the heating action of AC current. What needs to be considered, then, is that when using the “blend” method, emphasis on higher proportions of DC current levels to levels of AC current must be adjusted for accordingly. It is due to this need for a higher level of the chemical created by DC galvanic that some clients of color will require an overall longer treatment timeframe since the action of DC current is slower when the added AC thermolysis level is lowered. Another consideration when treating complexions of a darker color is to watch even more closely that no skin surface is re-traumatized as more highly pigmented skin is generally less forgiving than skin with less pigmentation.

WHAT SHOULD I EXPECT?
Most individuals are first curious about what electrolysis feels like, especially since the media tends to distort and exaggerate this and other aspects of electrolysis.

Any sensation felt, which most would describe as a sting that can be more “annoying” than “painful”, will be due to the activity of the current. Sensitivity levels tend to vary from person to person, even changing for the same individual at different treatment sessions. Your personal sensitivity will be one of the determining factors in the adjustment of current levels to provide you with the most comfortable treatment, while still considering the number of follicles able to be treated in a session. Also a consideration with reference to the intensity levels of the current is the particular area of treatment because some areas of the face and body are more sensitive than others. Sometimes the actual skin type involved may not be as tolerant to higher levels of current even though the client might be. The skin’s tolerance, itself, usually makes the final determining factor as to the levels a client can go up to. However, it is also important to keep in mind that the higher the current level permitted, the greater the number of follicles that can be treated within each treatment time period.

Another thing that helps with any potential discomfort level can be an adjustment in the type and size of probe your electrologist uses. If a probe is too narrow for the diameter of a hair follicle, for example, more sensation may be felt. There is also a non-prescription topical anesthetic cream available called LMX® (see: Information on LMX) that can be applied prior to and during treatments. An even more potent one, EMLA® (see: Information on EMLA) , is available by prescription only in the U.S., and, when applied properly works quite well at offering a numbing effect. Sometimes, taking an analgesic around an hour before your appointment can work wonders (Tylenol®, Advil®, etc. - whatever you would normally take for personal discomfort). Only you can judge what you may need. The majority of clients don’t need anything special, however, there are others who simply do. Overall, electrolysis treatments are quite tolerable for most people otherwise there would never be anyone returning to complete their treatments!

What an actual treatment entails is lying on a padded treatment table with the electrologist near the head or at the side of the table, depending on what specific area is to be treated. The epilator is usually available on a nearby stand or cart for the electrologist to access controls. A pre-sterilized disposable probe (a term I prefer as this does not have a pointed end like a needle and is not meant to penetrate skin as is a needle) is selected based on the diameter of the hair involved as well as other factors and is placed in the tip of the probe-cord. The probe, itself, is a fine, extremely small (thousandths of an inch wide), wire-like filament. The current(s) is/are then adjusted according to a number of variables. The probe is inserted alongside the hair into the follicle, current is applied, and the hair, if the target follicle cells are treated sufficiently, slides out (not tweezed) once it is grasped with tweezers. This process is then repeated with all successive follicles, one after the other, until completion is satisfactory.

DO YOU OFFER LASER HAIR REMOVAL?

At the present time, although permitted for use by electrologists in Ohio (after 50 extra hours of training), I am personally not yet comfortable with the fact that the lasers currently used for hair removal require treating the entire area of skin involved and not just the individual follicles (see:Information Concerning Lasers). I am waiting on proof that this relatively new, non-permanent hair removal device doesn’t cause any long-term damage to the skin. It can take 10-20 years for any harmful effects from medical devices or medicines to be known. Well documented research may show either any potential negative effects or perhaps instead, positive benefits of laser hair removal earlier than the 10-20 year span and as such, I could revise my conclusive position on this. Until then, I will continue to use what has been tried and true for over 130 years!

WHAT ARE “MODALITIES”?

A modality is something which is being “emphasized”. In the case of electrolysis, this would apply to the emphasis on the way each available current (AC and DC) is utilized.

There are three basic modalities concerning electrolysis, although there are only the two currents employed, AC and DC. The three basic current modalities are: Galvanic (DC), Thermolysis or Shortwave (AC) and Blend (both AC & DC).

Of these three modalities, two of them are further divided in their use. Thermolysis can be used two different ways. One, called Flash Thermolysis, uses a very high intensity setting but the actual time for each measure of current within a follicle is in tenths of a second. The other way to use Thermolysis is to keep the intensity down but lengthen the amount of time for the current to react while treating a follicle, which is measured in whole seconds. This is usually referred to as Manual Thermolysis.

The other current used in different ways is the DC current. This current can be used with a single probe or a multiple probe application. The latter modality is used with more frequency than the single probe method because it is more practical, although not every electrologist uses either the single or Multiple Needle methods.

The Blend method is a combination of both AC and DC currents adjusted in complimentary amounts base on any number of variables. As with all methods utilizing DC current, the client is asked to hold what is termed an electrode. This is merely a metal contact (or in some types of epilators, a moistened sponge) to complete the DC circuit due of the way DC works. If this whole process sounds strange to you, rest assured, it really isn’t. You don’t feel anything from this. You just maintain contact with it to allow the DC current to function.

WHAT AREAS CAN BE TREATED? WHO CAN BE TREATED?

As stated elsewhere, electrolysis is not dependent on pigment, so can work on any type, color or texture of hair, and is therefore able to treat any area of the body or head (although hair inside ear canals and the interior of the nose is prohibited). Also, skin color is not relevant with electrolysis, unlike laser (see: What About People of Color?). Some common areas for treatment desired by female clients are facial, areola (breast), abdomen, underarms and bikini lines while beards, outer ears and between brows (glabella) remain the most requested areas for male clients. In addition, surgical clean-ups are often requested by those seeking gender changes.

HOW DID ELECTROLYSIS BEGIN?

Electrolysis for hair removal was first created in 1875 using a battery and part of a sewing needle (hence, the term “needle”). It was discovered by a St. Louis ophthalmologist, Charles Michel, for the purpose of removing inverted eyelashes. Up until that point, surgical procedures were used that necessitated exposing all of the eyelash follicles, removing the offending few, and suturing the eyelid back together. Dr. Michel had been trying to find an alternative solution whereby only the individual eyelashes causing a problem could be removed without the need for an entire surgical procedure.

Although the resulting electrolysis method was quite efficient in permanently removing hairs, this “galvanic modality” was nonetheless slow in the reaction time it needed within each follicle. This was due to its means of treating the follicle by virtue of an actual chemical created (which takes time) when the current was combined with fluids and salts found within the follicle structure. This resulting chemical, in turn, destroyed cells needed by a follicle to produce another hair.

A “multiple needle” method was first created in 1916 to compensate for the slowness of the galvanic method, the logical theory being that by inserting many “needles” in succession, more follicles could be treated within a given timeframe. In 1923, a Frenchman, Dr. H. Brodier, found a way of applying the recently available alternating current (AC) for electrolysis use. This method, “thermolysis”, was faster at treating the target cells than the original method of electrolysis, yet less efficient in it’s initial permanent elimination of cells, resulting in more “regrowth” (see: Why Consistent Appointments?).

In the late 1940‘s, AC current was first used alongside DC, boosting the speed of the slower but more thorough galvanic type of electrolysis while maintaining its integrity. This newly found combination method was called “the blend”, as it blended two current types. It slowly gained favor in the 1980‘s as epilator capabilities improved due to new technologies. It is used widely today and is considered the most “current” method of electrolysis available.

HOW DOES ELECTROLYSIS WORK?
Electrolysis is a process involving the use of a measured amount of current to produce the microscopic elimination of hair-producing cells in an area called the dermal papilla at the base of each hair follicle.

A hair-width fine probe is inserted into a follicle (not through the skin) alongside the unwanted hair, itself. A hair follicle is merely a minute natural indentation of the skin from which the hair grows. The current passes through the probe (a.k.a. “needle”) to reach any “hair-producing” cells and consequently shuts down their further activity. AC current does this by a heating action of these cells, whereas DC current (used not only in the original electrolysis called galvanic, but also the blend or multiple needle modalities) mixes with the fluids and salts found within the follicle cells to create a minute amount of a chemical that renders the target cells useless at recreating any hairs.

WHY CONSISTENT APPOINTMENTS?
Hair grows in cycles. This is necessary to understand in order to know why it is so important to keep regularly scheduled appointments. This consistency of appointments is advantageous in being able to treat follicles as hairs emerge in their successive cycles.

All individuals are born with a certain number of hair-producing follicles. Some of these will remain dormant for life, while others will produce either the fine non-pigmented hair found all over both face and body (vellus) or the remaining hair of the face and body (terminal). Hairs go through various amounts of time in their active growing cycles, predetermined by the type of hair involved. For example, an eyelash hair obviously doesn’t grow for as long of a timeframe as, say, the hair on your head.

The active growing phase of a hair follicle, called anagen, not only contains all of the target cells that electrolysis aims to eliminate, but the position of an anagen follicle is barely below the skin. What this means is that the location and depth of this follicle makes the intensity and timing of current needed to sufficiently treat the cells less and shorter, respectively. Shorter time in follicles equals more follicles getting treated per session. It also creates a greater chance that any of the target cells will not be missed by the current since they are so readily available. This in turn means less “regrowth” (finer hairs that come from cells originally missed by the current, but later treated as they emerge between 3-4 months later) .

Yet one more item of importance is moisture (water levels within the cells - not the oiliness of the skin). It is found only in abundance within anagen follicles, and since moisture is required for the current to react, higher moisture levels make it easier to treat the follicle, allowing for current levels to be kept lower. Lower current means a more comfortable treatment. Hairs that are in the earliest anagen phase are barely visible without magnification and/or a proper lighting source since they are just coming up above skin level. Remember, they are only beginning their growth cycle. Hairs that are longer in length have been growing for a while and are usually in or near the middle phase called catagen. A “catagen” hair contains less moisture and structure for the current to react with because it has begun to separate from the host follicle and is no longer receiving constant nourishment from capillaries at the base of the follicle (dermal papilla). This causes the hair’s root sheath (the moist tissue coating on the lower part, near the bulb of an “anagen” hair) to lose moisture and begin to contract.

All hairs eventually arrive at their telogen phase, detaching from the follicle and falling out, as the hair on your hairbrush or an eyelash suddenly appearing in your eye can both attest to. Without the “hair-creating” dermal papilla cells being eliminated by electrolysis, another hair will eventually replace this hair in the follicle.

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE?

The overall timeframe from start to finish involves many variables. Some of these are consistency of appointments (see: Why Consistent Appointments?), skin pigment (see: What About People of Color?), amount of hair, sensitivity levels of a client and/or their skin, former temporary hair removal methods used (see: Is It Really Permanent?), hair type and texture, along with the underlying cause of growth (see:What Causes`Unwanted Hair Growth?). Due to all these variables, any time frames given will be in approximates based on perfect conditions, usually calculated in terms of months, a year or perhaps more, depending on the area and gender of an individual.

IS IT REALLY PERMANENT?
Quite simply, yes. Yes, if the target cells within the follicles are thoroughly treated. Once these particular cells, responsible for creating a hair within its follicle are eliminated, it is as if the hair-producing “factory” becomes permanently closed.

The transmission of current must fully reach every pertinent cell within the lower two-thirds of a follicle which includes the papilla at the base in order to produce permanent hair removal results. Since an electrologist must work below skin level where current action cannot be seen, there obviously may be cells initially missed by the current and consequently left untreated or only slightly damaged. Previous temporary methods of removal can contribute to conditions that make it more difficult for current(s) to fully reach all target cells if they were methods that involved the interior of a follicle, such as tweezing, waxing, laser or threading. These temporary methods can alter the general shape of a follicle in such a way that effects the ability of a probe to be placed in the most advantageous position. This in turn may cause current(s) to not initially or effectively reach each and every target cell, thereby contributing to “regrowth”. Shaving, clipping, depilatories and bleaching don’t directly effect the interior structure of a follicle and as such, usually don’t create any changes of a follicle that would make it more difficult for current(s) to reach necessary cells (although these methods may alter the general integrity of the skin if used for extensive lengths of time).

Hairs that return in previously treated follicles are called “regrowth” and are usually finer than the hair originally from those follicles since they are only being created by a small percentage of the original cells still available. Regrowth takes around 3 -4 months to become noticed (from the time those follicles were initially treated) and generally occurs in only about 15% to 40% of the total follicles treated, depending on the modality being used, the skill of the electrologist, and other mitigating factors such as those mentioned above. There will always be some level of regrowth, but all efforts are made to keep that to an absolute minimum. “Regrowth” hair follicles are easily treated, usually once more, to catch the remaining cells.

One other thing to consider is that in the future, even after electrolysis has permanently shut down all of the original hair follicles involved in creating the unwanted hair that brought you to electrolysis in the first place, other untreated follicles can be subject to hormone stimulation produce hairs. These follicles were most likely dormant, not producing any noticeable hairs during the time of your initial round of treatments, but were later stimulated for the first time by a hormonal change within your body. This can occur from the same source that caused the original hair problem, or could be coming from an entirely different scenario, such a entering menopause.

Regardless of the reason, these hairs rarely, if ever, appear in the same number as the original hairs did. They are not all the hairs you already had removed coming back, which is what some people are left to think. However, if you don’t want these hairs either, you will of course need further electrolysis. You can choose either to simply have periodic electrolysis as the hairs appear, or, wait until there are enough to truly bother you again.

CAN THERE BE COMPLICATIONS?
Even though electrolysis is medical in nature, there are rarely any chronic conditions caused by it. If there are any problems, they are usually short-term in nature and resolve themselves.

Not really a complication per se, but needing to be mentioned is that there is usually some localized swelling (edema) and redness (erythema) immediately following a treatment. This subsides, disappearing most commonly within an hour. Some clients barely have any of these occurrences, while others, due to skin type and sensitivity, appear more effected. Still, these features leave soon after the treatment is done. My epilator allows me to provide what is called “cataphoresis” which is an application of a metal accessory, usually a small roller, that uses the positive pole of DC as opposed to the negative pole used to actually treat the follicles (this is in here in case you happen to know something about such things as polarities). The important point of this is that it is applied after each treatment and essentially helps to calm and neutralize the skin sites effected by constricting the blood vessels and firming the skin tissue. It also happens to feel good which is all most clients care to know! I also give plastic-sealed reusable ice-cubes to apply to facial areas to facilitate the closing of follicle openings.

Better known with any procedure involving the skin is the complication of scarring. In electrolysis, scars, if ever any, are generally minute, shallow indentations of the skin. They are never much wider, if at all, than a follicle opening. This problem, although it should never happen, can occur under different circumstances. They can be caused as much by a client’s maltreatment of their skin as from an electrologist not performing the treatment properly. Sometimes, if a client has been tweezing hairs for any continued period of time prior to electrolysis, they actually enter into treatment with small scars already formed. This happens from inadvertently grabbing bits of skin while attempting to remove a hair with tweezers. Repeated infections due to acne or picking at the skin and/or any scabs can also cause scars to form at any time. The skin’s cellular structure may also have been damaged by harsh chemicals (bleaches or depilatories), sun damage, laser or even previous improperly performed electrolysis, all of which keep the skin from healing properly. This poor healing can potentially cause future problems more easily than would otherwise be seen with skin in good condition.

Another potential, but even less likely complication is the usually transient condition of hyperpigmentation. This is when cells that produce melanin are disturbed or damaged and too much pigment gathers at the skin’s surface. Sunning and/or tanning beds are especially discouraged (see: Aftercare) for those prone to having any pigment problems such as freckling or melasma (patchy darkening of skin due to higher than usual hormone levels, such as from birth control pills or pregnancy and generally associated with solar exposure). Hypopigmentation is probably the worst case scenario. This is a total lack of pigment in areas due to permanent damage of melanocytes (pigment cells) from an excessive amount of current (or other sources not related to electrolysis). Pigment is unable to return. It is rare in electrolysis because it takes extensive measures to create it and wouldn’t be very tolerable to a client.

WHAT CAUSES UNWANTED HAIR GROWTH?
There are multiple factors that can be involved in creating undesired hair. The frequency and location of hair growth is primarily controlled by hormones. In turn, these hormones are regulated and influenced by any number of variables such as heredity, phase of life in women (puberty, pregnancy, menopause), medications, disease or stress. Of course, normal hair growth can also be considered “unwanted” if it is not in sinc with what is desirable.

Previous forms of temporary hair removal (i.e.-tweezing, waxing, laser or light-based devices) can also affect the rate and amount of hair growth. For both men and women, genetics, too, can affect how follicle cells respond to the hormones that circulate in the blood stream. These cells may be more “sensitized” to normal amounts of androgens compared to the cells of another person, resulting in more than average amounts of hair growth. For women, this often manifests itself as an excess of facial hair, but other areas of the body may also be affected.

Puberty is a time when both sexes gain much of their body hair, with males usually gaining the beginning of all facial hair such as a male-pattern beard, but also hair that grows in between the area of the brows, called the glabella. If a female has a hormonal imbalance or genetic predisposition toward gaining facial hair, it very often begins at this time, usually accumulating in coarseness, amount and pigment over a period of years (see below). Ongoing stress, pre - menopause or actual menopause can also create unwanted facial hair.

There are a certain number of medical conditions, too, that can cause a surge of noticeable hair growth. One of the most common is Polycystic Ovary Syndrome, or, PCOS(See:Information on PCOS). Usually present with this disorder, along with the excess hair, is acne, weight gain, infertility and irregular menstrual cycles. Since this condition is potentially associated with a pre-Diabetes II condition, known as Insulin Resistance it is imperative to seek out a Reproductive Endocrinologist or other hormone-knowledgeable physician to be tested and treated, if necessary. Also, any sudden onset of hair growth needs immediate attention as this can be related to a more severe condition such as a tumor, whether benign (harmless) or not. See your physician!

Corticotrophins (such as cortisone), medications and any type of sex hormone can also cause unwanted hair growth.

Follicles that have been stimulated to grow by any of the above factors first show up as light hairs that are longer than the shorter, finer vellus hairs covering most of the face and body. These longer hairs, called accelerated vellus hair, go through the same growing cycles as usual, eventually falling out. Only, each succeeding replacement hair will grow a bit longer and wider in diameter, eventually picking up more and more pigment until it becomes more noticeable (See:Information on Hirsutism).

WHAT IF I AM PREGNANT?
First, it goes without saying that you should always discuss having electrolysis with your doctor and get his/her okay if you are pregnant or think you are.

Electrolysis can be entirely safe during pregnancy, but galvanic (DC) current should absolutely not be used, as a minute amount of current does travel a short path through the body and there is no way to guarantee that it won’t cross the placenta. AC electrolysis, used alone, does not pose this risk.

However, if you or your doctor are uncomfortable with any part of this, then of course do not begin or continue electrolysis. Assuming you have time after having a baby, you can always have electrolysis again...The hair will still be there! Use your own intuition and your doctor’s judgment.